α-arbutinuye β-arbutin makemikari maviri ane hukama hwakasimba anoshandiswa muzvigadzirwa zvekuchengetedza ganda kuti ganda rive rakajeka uye ripenye. Kunyange zvazvo vaine chimiro chakafanana uye mashandiro akafanana, pane misiyano midiki pakati pezviviri izvi inogona kukanganisa kushanda kwazvo uye migumisiro inogona kuitika.
Muchimiro, α-arbutin neβ-arbutin iglycosides yehydroquinone, zvinoreva kuti dzine glucose molecule yakabatana nehydroquinone molecule. Kufanana uku kwechimiro kunobvumira makemikari ese ari maviri kudzivirira enzyme tyrosinase, iyo inobatanidzwa mukugadzirwa kwemelanin. Nekudzivisa tyrosinase, makemikari aya anogona kubatsira kuderedza kugadzirwa kwemelanin, zvichiita kuti ganda rive rakajeka uye rakanyatsorongeka.
Musiyano mukuru uripo pakati peα-arbutin neβ-arbutin uri panzvimbo yechisungo cheglycosidic pakati pezvikamu zveglucose nehydroquinone:
α-arbutin: Mu α-arbutin, chisungo cheglycosidic chinosungirirwa panzvimbo ye alpha ye hydroquinone ring. Kuiswa uku kunofungidzirwa kuti kunowedzera kugadzikana uye kunyungudika kwe α-arbutin, zvichiita kuti ishande zvakanaka pakushandisa ganda. Chisungo cheglycosidic chinoderedzawo mukana wekuti hydroquinone ioxidation, izvo zvinogona kutungamira pakuumbwa kwemakemikari matema anodzivirira ganda rinoda kujeka.
β-arbutin: Mu β-arbutin, chisungo cheglycosidic chinosungirirwa panzvimbo ye beta ye hydroquinone ring. Kunyange zvazvo β-arbutin ichishandawo mukudzivisa tyrosinase, inogona kunge isina kugadzikana pane α-arbutin uye inogona kuoxidation zvakanyanya. Oxidation iyi inogona kukonzera kuumbwa kwemakemikari ebrown asingade kujekesa ganda.
Nekuda kwekugadzikana kwayo kukuru uye kunyungudika, α-arbutin inowanzoonekwa senzira inoshanda uye inofarirwa pakuchengetedza ganda. Inofungidzirwa kuti inopa mhedzisiro iri nani yekujekesa ganda uye hainyanyi kukonzera kuchinja kweruvara kana migumisiro isingadiwe.
Kana uchifunga nezvezvigadzirwa zvekuchengetedza ganda zvinearbutin, zvakakosha kuverenga zvakanyorwa pachinyorwa kuti uone kana α-arbutin kana β-arbutin zvichishandiswa. Kunyange zvazvo mishonga yese ichigona kushanda, α-arbutin inowanzoonekwa sesarudzo yepamusoro nekuda kwekugadzikana kwayo uye simba rayo.
Zvakakoshawo kuziva kuti kukanganiswa kweganda remunhu mumwe nemumwe kunogona kusiyana. Vamwe vanhu vanogona kusangana nemigumisiro yakadai sekutsamwa kweganda kana kutsvuka pavanoshandisa zvigadzirwa zvine arbutin. Sezvineiwo nechero chinhu chekuchengetedza ganda, zvinokurudzirwa kuti uedze chigamba usati waisa mushonga wacho panzvimbo yakakura yeganda uye kubvunza chiremba weganda kana uine zvinokunetsa nezvezvingangoitika.
Mukupedzisa, α-arbutin neβ-arbutin ma glycosides ehydroquinone anoshandiswa pakuita kuti ganda rive rakajeka. Zvisinei, kuisa glycosidic bond yeα-arbutin panzvimbo yealpha kunoita kuti igare yakasimba uye inonyungudika, zvichiita kuti ive sarudzo inonyanya kufarirwa yezvigadzirwa zvekuchengetedza ganda nechinangwa chekuderedza hyperpigmentation uye kuwana ganda rakafanana.
Nguva yekutumira: Nyamavhuvhu-30-2023
