α-arbutinuye β-arbutin maviri ane hukama nemakemikari makomisheni ayo anowanzo shandiswa muzvigadzirwa zvekuchengetedza ganda kuitira kupenya kweganda uye kupenya.Nepo ivo vachigovana yakafanana musimboti chimiro uye mashandiro echiito, kune misiyano yakadzikama pakati pezviviri izvo zvinogona kukanganisa kushanda kwavo uye zvinogona kuitika.
Zvimiro, ese ari maviri α-arbutin uye β-arbutin maglycosides ehydroquinone, zvinoreva kuti vane glucose molecule yakanamatira kune hydroquinone molecule.Uku kufanana kwechimiro kunobvumira ese ari maviri makomisheni kuvharidzira iyo enzyme tyrosinase, iyo inobatanidzwa mukugadzirwa kwe melanin.Nekuvharisa tyrosinase, aya makomisheni anogona kubatsira kudzikisa kugadzirwa kwe melanin, zvichitungamira kune yakareruka uye yakawanda kunyange ganda toni.
Musiyano wekutanga pakati pe α-arbutin ne β-arbutin uri munzvimbo ye glycosidic bond pakati pe glucose ne hydroquinone moieties:
α-arbutin: Mu α-arbutin, iyo glycosidic bond inosungirirwa panzvimbo yealpha yehydroquinone mhete.Kumisikidzwa uku kunofungidzirwa kuti kunowedzera kugadzikana uye kunyungudika kwealpha-arbutin, zvichiita kuti inyatsoshanda pakushandiswa kweganda.Iyo glycosidic bond zvakare inoderedza mukana weiyo oxidation yehydroquinone, iyo inogona kutungamira mukuumbwa kwemakomisheni akasviba anopesana neinodiwa ganda-mhene maitiro.
β-arbutin: Mu β-arbutin, iyo glycosidic bond inosungirirwa panzvimbo ye beta ye hydroquinone mhete.Kunyange zvazvo β-arbutin inoshandawo mukudzivisa tyrosinase, inogona kunge isina kugadzikana pane α-arbutin uye inowanzoita oxidation.Oxidation iyi inogona kukonzera kuumbwa kwemakomisheni ebrown ayo asinganyanyi kudiwa pakupenya kweganda.
Nekuda kwekugadzikana kwayo kukuru uye kunyungudika, α-arbutin inowanzoonekwa seyakanyanya kushanda uye inofarirwa fomu ye skincare application.Zvinotendwa kuti zvinopa ganda-mhene mibairo zviri nani uye hazvikonzerese kushanduka kwemavara kana zvisingadiwe.
Kana uchifunga nezve skincare zvigadzirwa zvinearbutin, zvakakosha kuverenga iyo ingredient label kuti uone kana α-arbutin kana β-arbutin inoshandiswa.Nepo ese ari maviri makomisheni achigona kushanda, α-arbutin inowanzoonekwa seyepamusoro sarudzo nekuda kwekusimba kwayo uye simba.
Izvo zvakakoshawo kuziva kuti ganda remunhu rinogona kusiyana.Vamwe vanhu vanogona kusangana nemhedzisiro yakadai sekutsva kweganda kana kutsvuka kana vachishandisa zvigadzirwa zvine arbutin.Sezvinoita chero chinongedzo chekuchengetedza ganda, zvinokurudzirwa kuita bvunzo yechigamba usati waisa chigadzirwa kunzvimbo yakakura yeganda uye kuonana nedermatologist kana uine chekunetsekana pamusoro pezvaungaite.
Mukupedzisa, ese ari maviri α-arbutin uye β-arbutin maglycosides ehydroquinone anoshandiswa pakuita kwavo kupenya kweganda.Nekudaro, iyo α-arbutin chinzvimbo cheiyo glycosidic bond panzvimbo yealpha inopa kugadzikana kwakanyanya uye kunyungudika, zvichiita kuti ive sarudzo inofarirwa yezvigadzirwa zvekuchengetedza ganda nechinangwa chekudzikisa hyperpigmentation uye kuwana ganda rakatonyanya.
Nguva yekutumira: Aug-30-2023